Medieval Badges

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Medieval Badges Cross-stitch Sampler 1

Embroidered Medieval Badge Bookmark 1

Manuscript page of Book of Hours, sewn-in embroidery of Holy Initials, paper badge featuring Saint Peter's keys and the veil of Veronica and pilgrim badge, Paris, France, 1450-1500, 130 x 80 mm. Paris, France, Bibliothèque de l'Arsenal, inv. MS 1176 rés, fol. Av-Br. Source: Bibliothèque nationale de France.

Embroidered bookmarks are a fun way to explore medieval badges. Embroidering heightens attention to elements of the badge’s iconography and allows the maker to express the badge’s proportionality. This kind of activity is not new. While textiles from the Middle Ages rarely survive, some of those that do display the creativity and consummate design and crafting skills of medieval embroideresses (and the occasional embroiderer). The badge-like object to the right, which has survived because it was sewn into a medieval manuscript, is an example of textiles and badges interacting.

Cross-stitch is a popular and easy way to learn how to embroider. Ellen Siebel-Achenbach, the researcher-maker of this project, has created a pattern and instructions to help you create your own embroidered medieval badge bookmark! For anyone new to cross-stitch, Ellen recommends this video to help you get started.

Materials

  • Aida Cotton 14ct cloth

  • 6 Strand Cotton Floss (DMC)

  • Embroidery needle

  • Regular white thread and sharp needle

  • Embroidery hoop (recommended)

  • Scissors, pencil, and ruler

  • An iron

  • Cut felt for backing (4.5 x 18 cm)

  • See bottom of post for colour recommendations

Preparation of Materials

  1. Iron aida cloth and felt until flat.  

  2. Set felt aside for finishing and tightly secure aida cloth on an embroidery hoop.

  3. All stitches are worked with two strands of floss, which must be separated before threading onto needle.

TIPS WHILE EMBROIDERING

  1. At the end of each colour/strand, be sure to leave enough length to weave the floss through the back of the stitches for fastening.

  2. It is easiest to start in the centre of the chart and work outwards, continuing to use the threaded colour until a new strand is needed or all stitches of that colour have been completed.

Finishing

  1. With a pencil and ruler, mark a line about six holes in from each side of the piece and cut.  Fold this in half (at three holes) and sew a hem with regular thread and sharp needle. 

  2. Using appropriate size of felt, sew backing onto the embroidered piece.

  3. Iron until flat. Do not steam; water can cause the colours of embroidery floss to run.

  4. Enjoy your new bookmark!

From top to bottom, the bookmark features an assorted display of medieval badges: first, a badge of a rooster, then an acorn, then a fountain surrounded by a wreath of mulberry twigs, and then Saint Bridget of Sweden writing at her desk, pen in hand, while inspired by the Holy Spirit (see hand of God in top right corner). The rooster was particularly difficult for Ellen to design because the gridded foundation of cross-stitch does not easily lend itself to natural forms. Although embroidery techniques like needlepoint and crewel are better suited to animals, Ellen used cross-stitch in these bookmarks because it captures the angular qualities of the badges. Another benefit of the style is that it offers diagonals and layered stitching, which Ellen has used to good effect in the plant and animal shapes.

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You are free to use whatever colours you have. Ellen used the following: Bright Orange-Red (606); Medium Beige Brown (741); Bright Canary (973); Bright Chartreuse (704); Medium Electric Blue (996); Very Dark Lavender (208); Very Light Dusty Rose (151); Medium tin (003); Medium Beige Grey (644); Pewter Grey (317); Very Dark Blue Green (500); Dark Yellow Beige (3045); Very Dark Mahogany (300); Ultra Very Light Shell Pink (225); Ultra Very Light Mocha Brown (3866); Light Autumn Gold (3855); Pine Green (3364); Dark Cornflower Blue (792); Very Dark Salmon (347); Very Light Brown (435); Dark Hunter Green (3345)

Design and descriptions by Ellen Siebel-Achenbach. Edited by Hannah Gardiner and Dr. Ann Marie Rasmussen.